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JUST SAYING
 
       
   

TONE TALK

From Jim


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PAF

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The Truth about PAFs from the Rookies to the Pros:

I get calls and e-mails nearly everyday from guys who want to know what pickup they need to get the sound of an old PAF.
I can only answer with: "Which one of thousands are you talking about?" Think about it. They had machines without counters, at least 4 different magnet types (tons of them were cheap rejects), inconsistent wire (which they finally quit using), MANY different operators,even varying voltages from the public utilities (which affects motor RPMs,especially bacK then), etc.
Just look at the D.C readings they had. Anywhere from 6.5k, to over 10k. Sound consistent to you? Wire tensions, patterns,? Another guess at best. Who was running the machines that day? Most likely whoever they could drag off the street at extremely low wages. At Jim Wagner Pickups, I have narrowed down the field for you. I haven chosen to compare our achieved tones to famous live ones that have been sought after by all types and ages of guitarists for literally decades. And in doing so JWP has dis-proved any and all theories that they had to be built "the old way." I have used all new modern materials and designs to not only replicate all the old tones, but achieve fantastic new modern ones as well, and have done so for MANY years, winning the 2 biggest and best shootouts ever, and even having a modern-design ( the IronMan) being named pickup of the year.
When you look at the JWP Artist Page, you will see that there are some pretty well-known names that agree with those statements. Not to mention those who use my stuff anonymously ( word of mouth has a lot in this category).
You will see other companies ( most of them) that claim they have discovered and use the original alloys, magnets, have the old wire, machines,( and the one that really kills me is rare magnets with magnetic anomalies) etc. So what? All hype and malarky.
They still have the same old hit-and-miss inconsistency, overall junk tone, squealing, etc., and STILL lost to me.. ( in fact the quote from the HollyWood Shootout judges was I "CRUSHED all others." And frankly I could wind better pickups with a leather glove and a variable-speed drill for tools).
So I ask: Why would someone want to spend almost twice what I charge, for pickups that have been proven inferior to mine?
Just listen to clips like EdA's "Cross to Bear," or the Stormy" clip in the Sound Clips section of this site. Or for that matter the modern IronMan tones by Brian Hunsaker. I have many clips of most of JWP pickups, they can also be seen all over www.youtube.com All clips and vids are done by customers and fans of great tone. None are made or doctored by me.
By using equipment all designed by me, a different wire type than everyone else, radical proprietary winding and potting material (and how it is applied), and magnet design for over 14 years, our pickups perform as advertised. Even BETTER in most instances.
Not only are these tones achieved consistently with JWP Pickups, but you are then thereby given a great platform on which to base your OWN tone on. These are not one-trick-ponies by any stretch of the imagination.
I have proven time and time again that there is no need to spend thousands of dollars on pickups that are no more than a crapshoot at best. Yes, SOME of the old PAFs sounded fantastic ( the tones I have successfully replicated and surpassed), but most are just expensive junk. Your money is FAR better spent on a choice of JWPs, boutique amps and speakers and leave you change for other toys... ;-).
Played by thousands, heard by millions, JWP gets it right the 1st time, every time, both VINTAGE and MODERN tones !!

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PAF's and Mags...

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I don't know about you guys, but from the PAFs that I've had apart, the "machine" aspect in MANY, if not MOST cases looked like a rookie hand-winder did it. No consistencey at all. The great sounding ones were flukes.
And I will go further to say that by now, almost ALL of the good ones are either being used, or are in someones guitar, or even pickup collection. The rest get sold on E-Bay for stupid money.

I personally think hand wounds are the top of heap.....:thumb:
The mags are a different story. While it is believed that they were all A5's., they were not.
The where whatevever REJECTS Gibson could get that week , from 2-5's. Rejects wouldn't hold the spec'd charge, and Gibson would get them for 1/5 the regular price. THEY don't even know what's in there.

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ABOUT WCR CAPS

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WCR's precision wound high resolution capacitors, made in U.S.A.
Considered by many to be the finest capacitors available.
Tension controlled precision wound
High quality metalized film
Epoxy end fill
Sonically transparent. Cuts highs without muddying up tone.
Definitely sounds cleaner and more natural
Sounds fundamentally neutral, but its presentation has notable bloom and, as with the very best tube preamps, the ability to portray space -- around performers and as an entity itself. Its sound is spacious. There is no tubey glaze, but also no etch or edge. Instead, there is clarity, vigor, and grace.
These caps are great parts, and represent a significant step forward in capacitor technology and audio-musical performance...
WCR vs. JENSON*
Brand Equivalent Series Resistance         Dissipation Factor
WCR 15.90 mOhms         .0000 @ 1kHz. & 120Hz.
WCR 12.20 mOhms         .0000 @ 1kHz. & 120Hz.
Jenson 44.20 mOhms         .6000 @ 1kHz. & 120Hz.
Jenson 37.70 mOhms         .6200 @ 1kHz. & 120Hz.
*Jensen Audio Signal Capacitor. Pure aluminum foil. Tinned copper leadout. Paper in oil type. 141269-1
WCR vs. MULTICAP
Brand Equivalent Series Resistance         Dissipation Factor
WCR 3.10 mOhms         .0000 @ 1kHz. & 120Hz.
WCR 3.30 mOhms         .0000 @ 1kHz. & 120Hz.
Multicap 7.60 mOhms         .0100 @ 1kHz. & 120Hz.
Multicap 4.90 mOhms         .0100 @ 1kHz. & 120Hz.

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ABOUT JWP DC Resistance

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I wind by EXACT NUMBER OF TURNS, and NOT by exact DC resistance.
The DC resistance will only give you a ballpark number, as there are many things that can alter the reading. Different meters, different roll of wire, even changes of wire size in a roll of wire itself, room temperature, etc

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ABOUT Height Adjustments

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Here are some guidlines for almost ANY pickup (how *I* like them anyhow.....lol).
Set the pole-piece screws so they are flush with the top of either the bobbin, or the cover.
Hold the 2 E strings down at the last fret, and set the pup so the strings are about 1 NICKEL AT THE NECK, AND SLIGHTLY MORE AT THE BRIDGE (LIKE 1-1/2 NICKELS) for starters.
Then set the other screws to sorta match the neck radius.It wont be as curved at the bridge.
It'll be a little flatter all the way across.
Some like the "B" screw to be the lowest, but you are just going to have to stand there for awhile with an amp and a screwdriver, and tinker with it to fine-tune them to YOUR ears. They are very sensitive to adjustment, like all my stuff.
Turnining the pole-pieces in will fatten them a little, screw them out to thin them out.
You should not have anymore than 1/2 of a screwhead thickness sticking out of the top of either the bobbin, OR the cover.
That's it for starters. The rest is just plain up to you my friend !

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ABOUT Phasing

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Flip the mag in just one pickup the other way. In other words, the edge of the magnet that is against all the scews, should be pulled and flipped to be against all the slugs. All of the screws are one polarity (north or south) and the slugs are all the opposite of that.

I have about 1/2 my guitars like that. When you are in the middle position, have both volumes on 10. Then, back one of the volumes down slowly. By the time you get to 8, it will be fat again. But between 8-10, there are a myriad of voices to be found using minute adjustments. And it will sound differently if you turn the OTHER volume down instead.
Or, you can also just swap the ground wire and the hot wire of that pickup, but be sure the bare twisted wire is ALWAYS grounded..And if you do that, it will kill the screw bobbin instead of the slug bobbin if you sre coil-splitting.
I have attached an exploded view of a humbucker so you are more familiar with what is under the hood...... ;-)
There. THAT will keep you busy and out of trouble awhile... hehhehheh

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Moore-Green Info

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If you listen to "Still Got the Blues," THAT is what they are like exactly, and that statement came straight from the people who OWN that axe ;-) I bought and modified a new R8 with them and my electronics and was graced with a chance to play with the Marshall Tucker Band Thurs. nite.
I may seem biased, but if it didn't sound as good that night as Gary's axe, it was even better.
I thought it was the best sounding axe I own, but after Thurs. nite I think it is the best axe I've ever HEARD!!!.
I am keeping that one like it is until it rots.... lol
Yes, they are out of phase. But just like the real ones, the neck pickup has 2 conductor + ground. That way it can be wired either in or out of phase, OR, it can be wired to a push-pull switch to have that option at will.

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PRS INFO
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Stock PRS has black, red ,white, and shield wires
WRC has black, white, red, green, and shield
Black JWP goes to black on PRS
Red and white of JWP are soldered together and go on red of PRS
Green of JWP goes to white of PRS
Shield (bare twisted) goes to ground
The magnets need to be checked to make sure they are the same north/south of PRS.
Usually on a PRS rotary, they are opposite poles, or out-of-phase on and normal guitar.
I will phase them like that upon request.
(If the pickups are out of phase in the 2,3,4, positions you have to reverse the magnet in ONE of the pickups, DO NOT swap the wires, if you do it will not work. )

Here's another way to look at it:

PRS                  JWP
White                  Green
Red                  White/Red
Black                  Black

White                  Green
Red                  White/Red
Black                  Black
An issue with a PRS is usually the neck pickup cavity beeing too shallow, and the bucker has to straddle the neck.

In that case, its mostly the pole-piece screws being too long, and if you tell us it is for a PRS, I will also send along 6-12 "short" pole-piece screws.
Finally, the stock height-adjustments screws on a PRS generally are fatter than vintage stock, and vintage stock screws are also too long.
So, just install the pickup(s) into the mounting ring, lower it so the top of the pickup is as low as you want it to be (usually about flush with the top of the ring) and snip off any adjustement screw thats sticking out the botton.

Here is a pic of how to wire to a rotary switch. Also, one of the mags will have to be flipped if you are using the rotary.. Either by you or us, it is VERY easy to do in any case.

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Shaft Chart

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Guitar Make/Model
Vintage Kit Type
Gibson
Les Paul Standard 1952- 1977
Short Shaft
Les Paul Standard
1977-current
Long Shaft
Les Paul Custom
1954-1977
Short Shaft
Les Paul Custom
1977-current
Long Shaft
Les Paul Deluxe 1968-1977 Short Shaft
Les Paul Deluxe
1978-current
Short Shaft
Les Paul Pro
1977-1982
Long Shaft
Les Paul Studio
All Years
Long Shaft
Les Paul Classic (1960) All Years Long Shaft
Les Paul Jr.
All Years
Short Shaft
The Paul
All Years Short Shaft
SG (all models)
All Years Short Shaft
ES Series
All Years Short Shaft
Melody Maker
All Years Short Shaft
Flying V
All Years Short Shaft
Explorer
All Years Short Shaft
Firebird
All Years Short Shaft
EDS-1275
All Years Short Shaft
Historic R2-R0 Std.
All Years
Short Shaft
Historic R7 Custom
All Years
Short Shaft
Historic '68 Cus. Reiss. All Years
Long Shaft
Epiphone
All Models
All Years Short Shaft
*excludes hollow body
Hamer
All Models
All Years Short Shaft
Paul Reed Smith
All Models
All Years Short Shaft
Fender
Stratocaster
All Years Short Split
Telecaster
All Years Short Solid
Telecaster Custom All Years Short Solid
Telecaster Deluxe All Years Short Shaft
Telecaster Thinline
All Years Short Solid
Jazzmaster
(and new reissues)
1958-1964
Short Split
Jazzmaster
1964-1970s Short Solid
Esquire
All Years
Short Solid
Jaguar
All Years Short Solid
Mustang
All Years Short Solid
Duo-Sonic
All Years Short Solid
Musicmaster All Years Short Solid
Bronco
All Years Short Solid
Lead Series
All Years Short Split

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ABOUT Phasing

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